In an interview with the Village Voice in 1983, Miyake outlined his opposition to the fashion cycle: “I want my customer to be able to wear a sweater I designed 10 years ago with this year’s pants.” It was Miyake’s cynicism about the fashion industry, in particular the speed at which it produced, that gave his designs such longevity in reputation and design. Models display creations from Issey Miyake’s spring/summer 2023 men’s collection during Paris fashion week in June. The line remains one of the first and best examples of gender-free clothing and still fetches hundreds of pounds on resale sites. His most famous and most affordable clothes, the Pleats Please line, was launched in 1993 as a retort to the price and unwearability of high-end fashion.įeaturing capes and trousers, and flowing sleeveless tabards made from heat-treated polyester to create permanent pleats, the clothes never creased, could be machine washed and be rolled instead of folded. One of his earliest pieces was a jersey body, hand-painted using traditional Japanese tattoo techniques.Ī keen sportsman, function became the linchpin of Miyake’s work. It was this interest in fashion as art and function, democratic but aesthetically pleasing, which led him to establish the Miyake Design Studio in 1970, and show his first very wearable collection in New York in 1971. But piqued by the crossover between disciplines, he pivoted to fashion and moved to Paris to become an apprentice to Guy Laroche and eventually work for Hubert de Givenchy around the time Audrey Hepburn was wearing his dresses.Īfter witnessing the 1968 student protests, Miyake became disenchanted by an industry designed to dress only the wealthy. Photograph: Daniel SIMON/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Imagesīorn in Hiroshima in 1938, Miyake studied graphic design at the Tama Art University in Tokyo.
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